American Graffito
Spring is getting closer – isn’t it? – and so is the reopening of the Third Ward restaurant that bears the name of a certain Milwaukee Brewers left fielder. The new name, Ryan Braun’s Graffito (102 N. Water St.), was announced a few days ago. “Graffito,” co-owner Mike Polaski explained in a press release, is “traced to ancient Rome where markings were left in tombs and catacombs, leaving lasting impressions.” The name is meant to give diners “an indication of the menu and ambiance,” he said. I wish them luck with getting diners to make that connection. Executive chef Dominic Zumpano (Umami Moto’s former chef) is working on the Italian menu, which will incorporate homemade breads, pastas, sauces and seasonings. I won’t know anything specific for a bit. Peabody’s Interiors is doing the decor – exposed brick, distressed wood and “other ‘raw’ materials.” The reopening is slated for late March.
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| Mars Cheese Castle's upgrade. |
Fortified Walls
The I-94 expansion project gave the heave-ho to Mars Cheese Castle’s longtime location (2800 120th Ave., Kenosha). Owners Phil Wehrmeister and Mario Ventura Jr. built Mars’ new home – a veritable castle – just 800 feet from the old one, and the opening festivities are on the horizon. Beginning March 4, you can stock up Colby, Swiss, brick and cheddar at Mars, as well as cheese curds and the ever-popular wax-coated cheeses shaped like the state of Wisconsin. Usinger and Nueske’s products are included in the stock of wares. The new castle has some fine touches – a turret and other medieval accoutrements. Reuben sandwiches will be available at the lunch counter, and spiral cheddar bread in the bakery. The month of March will feature in-store demos and tastings. By the way, the original sign is still intact and visible from the highway, although it, too, had to be moved. Get prepped for a Mars excursion by looking here.
Hog Wild
Apparently there’s this new sensation – the It Pig. It’s a corpulent porker called the Mangalitsa. Chefs love it because its meat is fattier and richer tasting than other breeds. The New York Times ran a story late last year that mentioned the Mangalitsa’s appearance on menus, including at The French Laundry in Yountville, Calif. Downtown Milwaukee’s Carnevor is incorporating some Mangalitsa into its menu, too. Starting today (Thursday, Feb. 24), the steakhouse is running a ravioli small plate that has a Mangalitsa, sweet potato and Swiss chard filling ($10), and a Mangalitsa sausage pasta entrée with house-made spaghetti, pea shoots and confit tomato ($29). And... for the next couple of weeks, there’s also a nightly special – pan-roasted Mangalitsa pork chop with herb-roasted root vegetables ($32). And incidentally, Carnevor’s Jarvis Williams graces the cover of Milwaukee Magazine’s March issue, available on newsstands now. (724 N. Milwaukee St., 414-223-2200)
Red, White and In-Between
Looking for something to do on March 2 at precisely 7 p.m.? Kil@wat’s Wine & Dine Night could be your meal ticket. The wine dinner features five courses paired with Napa Valley’s Rutherford Hill wines. David Zakroczymski, Kil@wat’s executive chef, is doing carpaccio (with Rutherford Hill ’07 rose), lobster ravioli with wild mushroom ragout (2007 Chardonnay), seared duck salad (2006 Merlot), roast strip loin with celery root puree and blackberry demi (2006 Cabernet), and white chocolate mousse vanilla sponge (vintage Zinfandel port). Cost is $55 per person. For reservations, call 414-291-4793. (Intercontinental Milwaukee Hotel, 139 E. Kilbourn Ave.)
Look for more Dish on Dining soon...
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If you spot a restaurant opening or closing, post it on the comments section of my column, or e-mail me directly: ann.christenson@milwaukeemagazine.com.